Pentair has made some significant design changes to the IntelliChlor Salt Cell.  In my opinion they’ve simplified the front control panel although the verdict is out as to technical changes that have been released.

I’ve been seeking a HOW TO calibrate the IntelliChlor and my sources at Pentair provided this Field Calibration Guide.  Of course, I thought it would be helpful to pass along to our readers.

Apparently this calibration is only applicable to older models as the newer models “do not require calibration”.  This last statement will require further confirmation.  The following calibration

guide is intended for older units that fall below Version 1.9.  To determine the version of your IntelliChlor Salt Cell flip the cell over and look for the label stamped with a bar code.  Look to the bottom left corner of that sticker to identify the version number (see picture).  Chances are the sticker may have fallen off over the course of time.

Here’s another trick I’ve found.  The newer units being produced have version numbers starting at 3.0 and greater.  The face of the newer units are distinctly different. (a) The unit to the LEFT is the older unit and has the words “Check Salt” in the first box of the display.  They’ve removed this in the new units. (b) The LEFT unit has “Pwr” or Power and “Life” where the unit to the RIGHT has replaced these two indicators with “Cold Water”.

online-shop_buttonThe steps mentioned below provide a method to calibrate or reset to factory presets.  The key to calibration is making sure that your water is FIRST chemically balanced and SECOND salt levels have been confirmed.  If your system is still not operating properly, calibration is the next step prior to replacing the unit altogether.  See steps below:



12 responses »

  1. jose rodriguez says:

    Is it nesessary to change the power center everytime we change the clorinator ic 20 thankyou.

  2. alan m says:

    I have the newer 3.0 version with less lights. My salt on the Pentair display center shows 2450 ppm and at the store when tested its 3350ppm. I tried the above mentioned calibration steps obtained from another internet forum but they didn’t work. (maybe because you say the newer models do not require calibration??) All the steps work until the 20% light is supposed to light up and you can change the salt reading, that one just makes the % chlorination go up and down when you push more or less. Is there something else I can do or is the chlorinator defective. The unit is less than a year old, I purchased March 27, 2015.

    • Alan,

      Couple of points to address:

      #1 If you’ve retained your receipt/proof of purchase, the original distributor/retail store should honor and exchange. Cells either have a (1) or (3) year warranty. It would be in your best interest to remove the cell from your system and go to a retail store that has a the ability to run a diagnostics test. Make sure to take a gallon of distilled water and insist they use it to perform the test.

      #2. The reason I point out the steps in #1, is that IF you are north of the equator then your water temperature is likely dipping below 60F/15C during the months of January which causes the salt cell not to operate properly. Cooler water temperatures reduce the chlorine production to VERY LOW LEVELS (often undetectable). Now IF you have an INDOOR POOL, or are heating the body of water and unit is still not responding, then option #1 is likely the best option to pinpoint if the cell is bad.

      Consider the following articles in your search for a solution:

      How to maintain and clean your chlorinator
      How much salt should I add to my Salt Water Pool?
      Cleaning your salt cell or chlorinator
      Winterize Your Salt Cell System

      LAST OPTION: If you are in Las Vegas, NV feel free to email us to schedule service appointment for your equipment (send request to

  3. Eric says:

    New IC40 installed and there is power going to the transfer but no lights on the cell fuse good should the lights be when the pump is running. Thank you for your reply Eric

  4. Stephen says:

    what will cause the cold water light to come on when you test the life of an IC 40 cell

    • Stephen,

      Any water temperatures below 70°F or 21°C can trigger the “COLD WATER” light. Chlorinators will not produce sufficient chlorine if the water to cold. This is a tricky time of the year because air temps dip at night during the Spring time. Once water temperatures begin to average above 70° F, the warning light should turn off.

  5. Rob says:

    I have. 2 1/2 year old IC40 on a Intellitouch automation system. When I go into diagnostics my intellichlor says 9900ppm. This is the newer style IC40. Water is balanced, temp is 80 degree water, pool store says 3400 ppm salt and good balanced water. IC40 has flashing green for high salt. How do I tell it’s making chlorine?

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