Chances are if you have a pool or spa, the pool builder used one or more valves manufactured by Jandy.  This valve allows for you to divert water in different directions.  As the exploded picture shows below, each valve has essentially 7 parts, consisting of:   Screws (1), Knob (2), Handle (3), Cover (4), O-rings (5, 6), Housing (7) and the Diverter Valve (8).

Jandy Valves rarely need to be repaired, however, there are some tell-tale signs that indicate valves should be carefully inspected.

  • Issue #1:  Leaking, dripping or calcium build-up around lid or screws.
  • Issue #2:  If pool pump always has air in the basket area and there are Jandy valves present in front of pump, then this may be an indication of faulty o-rings.
  • Issue #3:  If any of the 8 screws continue to turn to the right as you tighten, this is an indication of a stripped screw FIP or the threads that are on the inside of the housing.
  • Issue #4:  If knob is cracked off, this is typically an issue due to over-tightening in the attempt to lock down the handle.

Most of these issues can be easily repaired fairly quickly.

Issue #1 & Issue #2 – Repair (EASY)

Both of these signs can resolved by removing the following parts in this order:  knob , handle, 8 screws, lid (may need to be carefully pried off with a VERY small screw driver around the circumference of the lid), and diverter.  There are 2-types of o-rings (total of 3) that need to be replaced.  The larger of the two types of o-rings seats between the lid and the cover.  The second SET of o-rings are slipped over the stem of the diverter.  You may find that these o-rings tend to stick or hide in the impression of the lid underside.  Make sure to always lubricate all 3 o-rings prior to replacement.

Issue #3  – Repair (PROFESSIONAL)

This issue can be fairly challenging as it requires removing the entire valve from the existing plumbing and reconnecting another.  If your familiar with PVC repairs and installation than this should not be too challenging.  However, if your plumbing expertise is not up to par, leave it to the professionals.  Mistakes in this repair can be costly as if not properly installed, can create greater air breaches in the system.

Issue #4  – Repair (MODERATE)

Roughly 50% of all the systems we service have a broken knob.  Typically, these knobs are over tightened causing the post to crack off into the stem of the diverter.  Although the integrity and function of the valve itself should not be effected,  removing the cracked shaft of the knob may appear daunting.  POOL GUY SECRET – First, find a flat head screw driver that easily fits into the whole of the diverter screw shaft.  Take the tip of the screw driver and heat it with a lighter.  The idea is you will make an impression of the screw driver head by melting a crease into the top of the broken shaft.  Allow to cool.  Then simply place the same screw driver into the hole and back out the broken shaft (“lefty loosey”).  You should be able to get enough of the broken post our of the hole and be able to rotate the remaining portion out with a needle nose pliers.

Problem solved.  REMEMBER IN THE FUTURE….don’t tighten the knob ;).  However, if you must prevent people from moving the valve, simply set valve in the correct position, remove knob and handle entirely and store in safe keeping for future use.

Have additional questions on repairs?  Give us a call or send us an email and we will be happy to assist!

Vaughn Berger
Red Square Pools
(702) 530-7331 (phone) (email)
@redsquarepools (twitter)

About Red Square Pools

Thank you for checking out our blog...we appreciate you taking the time to read our posts. To be quite honest, our posts come from your questions. Red Square Pool's wants to clear up the confusion and frustration of maintaining your pool and spa. We simply want to make Pool Maintenance and Repair SIMPLIFIED!! Let us know what your thinking by dropping us an email at Have a safe and happy swimming experience!

3 responses »


    Yes, I have replaced all flapper valves, and yes the spa level still does go down. Now with this article, do I need to replace the o-rings in the Jandy valves? Please advise….Just amazed that this happened all of a sudden. Thank you, Tom


    If your spa water continues to drop over a period of time AFTER your filter pump turns off your issue is related to your check valve for the spa. Check valves are used to stop the flow of a body of water that sits above the equipment. In all cases, always make sure there is NO DEBRIS that may be causing a small leak. Leaves, palm branches, etc. can often lodge themselves in the check valves causing small leaks that can eventually drain a spa.

    If you have a JANDY CHECK VALVE your best solution is to ID the check valve and replace the flap or combination flap & lid as well as the o-ring (don’t forget to lube) that lies between the lid and the check valve housing. See link for visual .

    You may, however, have a ORTEGA CHECK VALVE. In this case, the seat assembly or the spring (1# or 3#) may need to be replaced. See link for visual .

    Let me know if either of these solutions helped resolve you issues.

  2. PLC700 says:

    Hey Nice Blog Article you know About the Buy Pool Supply Products Including Pumps, Jandy CL460 Filter, Filters, Automatic Cleaners, etc. To provide the highest quality products and service available. Variable speed pumps can drastically reduce electrical consumption in operating your pool. Longer run times at less cost means a cleaner, clearer pool and a happy pool owner.

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