NOTE TO READERS:
Hayward loves sending me legal threats regarding my posts because I REPRINT their information from time to time. I want to state upfront that this is a REPRINT of the Aqua Rite Electronic Chlorine Generator PDF which can be found online at Hayward.com. However, since there is enough traffic on our site requesting data about Electronic Chlorine Generator’s I feel it is necessary to shine some more light on the subject. If you would prefer to read the PDF from Hayward click HERE ;).
I have ONLY REPRINTED specific sections that seem to most relevant to the questions we get in the field…see highlighted BLUE TEXT
Now that we have addressed the elephant in the room, I’ve selected key pieces of text that answer questions I get DAILY about Chlorinator Systems. I figure most of you that have the systems in place have likely NEVER read to manual. This is no fault of yours as most have had them installed by service professionals….that have likely thrown the instructions in the trash with the box.
HOT TIPS
WARRANTY: The Aqua Rite has a 1 OR 3 Year Warranty. The industry secret is that both the 1 and 3 year chlorinator cells are one in the same. HOWEVER, the 3 year warranty is especially helpful in the event the unit ceases to operate in that 36 month window. The difference is roughly $100-150 and well worth every dollar.
Steps To A Successful WARRANTY EXCHANGE:
- Keep the original box and write the date of installation on said box.
- Keep the receipt from the store or installation service technician. If you purchase from a retail store, have them hand key the Model and Serial # on the receipt at the point of purchase. Pool stores are notorious for poor service records and can never recover warrantied items from the past. Just take my word for it.
- Take a photo of the identification sticker on the CELL in the event the sun makes the Model and Serial # illegible.
REPRINT FROM HAYWARD.COM
Installation and Operation Manual for Aqua Rite (standard) and Aqua Rite XL (inc. installation kit)
OPERATION
The Aqua Rite® is an automatic chlorine generation system for pool or spa sanitation. The operation requires a low concentration of salt (sodium chloride) in the pool water. These levels are low enough that it normally will not be tasted. The Aqua Rite automatically sanitizes your pool by converting the salt into free chlorine which kills bacteria and algae in the pool. Chlorine will revert back to sodium chloride after killing bacteria. These reactions will continuously recycle virtually eliminating the need to add sanitizing chemicals to your pool. The only time you may need to add more salt to the pool is when water is replenished due to backwashing, draining, or splashing (not evaporation).
The Aqua Rite is designed to handle the purification needs of most residential swimming pools up to 40,000 gallons (150,000 liters), or the needs of most commercial pools up to 25,000 gallons (95,000 liters). Check local codes for other restrictions. The actual amount of chlorination required to properly sanitize a pool varies due to bather load, rainfall, temperature, and the pool’s cleanliness.
NOTE: Goldline does not recommend using the Aqua Rite to generate bromine.
NOTE: Before installing this product as part of a saline water purification system in a pool or spa using natural stone for coping or for immediately adjacent patios/decking, a qualified stone installation specialist should be consulted regarding the appropriate type, installation, sealant (if any) and maintenance of stone used around a saline pool with electronic chlorine generator in your particular location and circumstances.
Salt Level
…The ideal salt level is between 2700-3400 ppm (parts per million) with 3200 ppm being optimal. If the level is low, determine the number of gallons in the pool and add salt according to the chart on page 4. A low salt level will reduce the efficiency of the Aqua Rite® and result in low chlorine production. A high salt level can cause the Aqua Rite® to shutdown and may begin to give a salty taste to your pool (generally,the salt will begin to be tasted at a level of about 3500-4000 ppm). The salt in your pool/spa is constantly recycled and the loss of salt throughout the swimming season should be small. This loss is due primarily to the addition of water because 0of splashing, backwashing, or draining (because of rain). Salt is not lost due to evaporation.
Type of Salt to Use
It is important to use only sodium chloride (NaCl) salt that is greater than 99% pure. This is common food quality or water softener salt and is usually available in 40-80 lb. bags labeled “Coarse Solar Salt”. It is also acceptable to use water conditioning salt pellets, however, it will take longer for them to dissolve. Do not use rock salt, salt with yellow prussiate of soda, salt with anti-caking additives, or iodized salt.
How to Add or Remove Salt
For new plaster pools, wait 10-14 days before adding salt to allow the plaster to cure. Turn the circulating pump on and add salt directly into the pool. Brush the salt around to speed up the dissolving process–do not allow salt to pile up on the bottom of the pool. Run the filter pump for 24 hours with the suction coming from the main drain (use pool vac if there is no main drain) to allow the salt to evenly disperse throughout the pool.
The salt display may take 24 hours to respond to the change in salt concentration. The only way to lower the salt concentration is to partially drain the pool and refill with fresh water. Always check stabilizer (cyanuric acid), when checking salt. These levels will most likely decline together.
Controls: Main Switch
AUTO: For normal operation, the Main Switch should be left in the AUTO position. In this position the Aqua Rite will produce chlorine according to the “Desired Output %” adjustment setting for the entire filtering/pumping cycle.
SUPER CHLORINATE: When you have an abnormally high bather load, a large amount of rain, a cloudy water condition, or any other condition which needs a large amount of purification to be introduced, put the Main Switch in the SUPER CHLORINATE position. This electronically “super chlorinates” (shocks) the water for 24 hours (filter pump must be on during this time) or until the power has been turned off, whichever comes first. At the end of the super chlorinate time, be sure to put the switch back into the AUTO position.
OFF: The OFF position prevents the Aqua Rite from energizing the electrolytic cell. In this position there is no chlorine generation. NOTE: To service any of the pool equipment or the Aqua Rite, turn the power off at the circuit breaker.
Indicator LED’s
- POWER When illuminated, the Aqua Rite has input power.
- GENERATING This LED is on steady during normal operation. When flashing, the pool water is too hot or cold to operate.
- SUPER CHLORINATE Illuminates during super-chlorination. See description above.
- REMOTELY CONTROLLED When illuminated, indicates that a remote pool automation control (Goldline Aqua Logic, Pentair Intellitouch, Polaris Eos, etc.) is controlling the Aqua Rite–the main switch and “Desired Output %” adjustment are inactive. When flashing, the Aqua Logic, Intellitouch or Eos is in SERVICE or TIME-OUT mode and the Main Switch and “Desired Output %” adjustment are active.
- NO FLOW When illuminated, the flow switch has detected no water flowing and the Aqua Rite has stopped generating chlorine. A flashing LED indicates a 15-60 second time delay period.
- CHECK SALT When flashing, the salt level is low (below 2700 ppm) and Aqua Rite is generating at low efficiency. When illuminated steady, the salt level is too low and Aqua Rite has shut down. Before adding large quantities of salt, it is advisable to have your salt level professionally checked.
- HIGH SALT When illuminated, the salt level is too high and Aqua Rite has shut down.
- INSPECT CELL A flashing indicator signifies that either the cell efficiency is reduced or that it is time for regularly scheduled cell inspection. In either case, inspect cell and clean if necessary. When illuminated steady, cell efficiency is greatly reduced and the Aqua Rite has stopped producing chlorine. Inspect, clean or replace if necessary.
“Desired Output %” adjustment knob
The “Desired Output %” adjustment knob is located in the lower center of the Aqua Rite control panel. This setting is used to control the amount of chlorine the Aqua Rite generates. Raise this setting to increase chlorine level and lower it to decrease chlorine level. Note: The “Desired Output %” adjustment will not function when the Aqua Rite is being controlled by a remote pool automation control.
Salt Display
The Salt Display shows the current salt concentration of the pool water. Readings are in ppm (parts per million). Refer to the Water Chemistry section for recommended salt levels as well as how to add/remove salt.
The factory default display is in English units (ppm). If Metric units (grams per liter) are preferred, push the small button next the display once. The display will now show the pool temperature. With the temperature displayed, move the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO. The temperature display will instantly switch to Celsius and the salt display will switch to grams/liter. Repeat this process to switch
back to English units. (ppm and Fahrenheit)
Operation
Assuming that the water chemical levels are in the recommended range, there are three factors that you can control which directly contribute to the amount of chlorine the Aqua Rite will generate:
- filter time each day (hours)
- the “Desired Output %” setting
- the amount of salt in the pool
The filter pump timer should be set so that all of the water in the pool passes through the filter each day. For pools with high chlorine demand, the timer may have to be set longer to generate enough chlorine. To find the optimum “Desired Output %” setting, start at approximately 50%. Test the
chlorine level every few days and adjust the dial up or down accordingly. It usually takes 2-3 adjustments to find the ideal setting for your pool/spa and after that, it should only take minor, infrequent adjustments. Because the chlorine demand of the pool increases with temperature most people find they have to adjust the dial up at the peak of the summer and down during the colder periods.
The Aqua Rite automatically stops generating when the pool water temperatures drops below 50ºF. This is usually not a problem because bacteria and algae stop growing at this temperature. You can override this low temperature cutoff by switching to SUPER CHLORINATE for a day.
Prevent over-chlorination during cold weather: Check chlorine levels periodically. Most pools require less chlorine during cold weather and the “Desired Output %” dial should be turned down accordingly.
When connected to a pool automation control (Goldline Aqua Logic, Pentair Intellitouch or Polaris Eos):
The Aqua Rite is designed to operate with all pool automation controls. The Aqua Logic, Intellitouch or Eos can fully control the function of the Aqua Rite chlorinator in addition to the other pool equipment. The “Remotely Controlled” LED on the Aqua Rite chlorinator will be illuminated when the automation control is activated. Adjustment of the Aqua Rite “Desired Output %” and also Superchlorination can be controlled from
the pool automation display/keypad. Refer to the pool automation control instructions.
Maintaining the Aqua Rite System
To maintain maximum performance, it is recommended that you open and visually inspect the cell every 3 months or after cleaning your filter. The Aqua Rite® will remind you to do this by flashing the “Inspect Cell” LED after approximately 500 hours of operation. After you inspect the cell (and clean, if necessary) press the small “diagnostic” button next to the display for 3 seconds to stop the flashing “Inspect Cell” LED and start the timer for the next 500 hours.
The Aqua Rite electrolytic cell has a self cleaning feature incorporated into the electronic control’s logic. In most cases this self cleaning action will keep the cell working at optimum efficiency. In areas where water is hard (high mineral content) and in pools where the water chemistry has been allowed to get “out of balance”, the cell may require periodic cleaning. The “Inspect Cell” LED will indicate if cell efficiency is decreased and servicing is necessary. If the “Inspect Cell” LED remains on after a thorough cleaning, the cell may be worn and require replacement.
Servicing and Cleaning the Aqua Rite cell
Turn off power to the Aqua Rite before removing the electrolytic cell. Once removed, look inside the cell and inspect for scale formation (light colored crusty or flaky deposits) on the plates and for any debris which has passed through the filter and caught on the plates. If no deposits are visible, reinstall. If deposits are seen, use a high pressure garden hose and try to flush the scale off. If this is not successful, use a plastic or wood tool (do not use metal as this will scratch the coating off the plates) and scrape deposits off of plates. Note that a buildup on the cell indicates that there is an unusually high calcium level in the pool (old pool water is usually the cause). If this is not corrected, you may to have to periodically clean the cell. The simplest way to avoid this is to bring the pool chemistry to the recommended levels as specified.
Mild Acid Washing: Use only in severe cases where flushing and scraping will not remove the majority of deposits. To acid wash, turn off power to Aqua Rite. Remove cell from piping. In a clean plastic container, mix a 4:1 solution of water to muriatic acid (one gallon of water to one quart of muriatic acid). ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER – NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID. Be sure to wear rubber gloves and appropriate eye protection. The level of the solution in the container should just reach the top of the cell so that the wire harness compartment is NOT submerged. It may be helpful to coil the wiring before immersing the cell. The cell should soak for a few minutes and then rinse with a high pressure garden hose. If any deposits are still visible, repeat soaking and rinsing. Replace cell and inspect again periodically.
Winterizing
The Aqua Rite electrolytic cell and flow detection switch will be damaged by freezing water just as your pool plumbing would. In areas of the country which experience severe or extended periods of freezing temperatures, be sure to drain all water from the pump, filter, and supply and return lines before any freezing conditions occur. The electronic control is capable of withstanding any winter weather and should not be
removed.
Spring Start-up
DO NOT turn the Aqua Rite on, until the pool water chemistry has been brought to the proper levels.
INSTALLATION
Installation must be performed in accordance with Local and NEC codes.
Preparing Pool/Spa Water
Refer to page 1 for recommended chemical levels. The pool’s chemistry must be balanced BEFORE activating the Aqua Rite®. NOTE: If the pool does not have new water, add 1 quart (1 liter) of metal remover and 1 quart (1 liter) of non-copper based algaecide to the pool, per manufacturer’s instructions. This ensures a quick, troublefree transfer to the Aqua Rite system.
Mounting the Aqua Rite Control
The Aqua Rite is contained in a raintight enclosure that is suitable for outdoor mounting. The control must be mounted a minimum of 5 ft. (2 meters) horizontal distance (or more, if local codes require) from the pool/spa. The control is designed to mount vertically on a flat surface with the knockouts facing downward. Because the enclosure also acts as a heat sink (disperses heat from inside the box), it is important not to block the four sides of the control. Do not mount Aqua Rite inside a panel or tight enclosed area.
Troubleshooting
Visit http://www.goldlinecontrols.com for helpful information on operation, maintenance and troubleshooting your Aqua Rite® Electronic Chlorine Generator. You may also call for technical assistance at 888-921-POOL. Technicians at the factory are available from 8:00 AM to 8:00 PM Eastern time, Monday through Friday. Be sure to have the following information when you call:
- Model and Serial # of control and cell
- Date of installation
- Installing Company or Dealer
- Salt level
Diagnostic Displays
- Sequential pushes of the small “diagnostic” button next to the LCD display will cause the Aqua Rite to display the following information:
- Pool temperature (xx degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius)
- Cell voltage (typically 22.0 to 25.0 volts when chlorine is being generated, otherwise 30-35V)
- Cell current (typically 4.50 to 7.80 amps when chlorine is being generated, otherwise 0 amps)
- Desired Output % (“0P” — “100P” depending on knob position or input from remote pool automation controller)
- Instant salinity ( -xxxx ppm or -x.xx grams/Liter)
- Product name sent to the pool automation control display (“AL-0” which signifies “Aqua Rite”)
- Software revision level (r1.xx) On the 8th push of the button the display will revert back to the default salt display.
Also, if the button is not pushed for 30 seconds, the display will revert back to the standard salt display.
Common Problems and Solutions
“Power” LED not on Check to make sure either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control. Verify input voltage with a voltmeter. If there is input power, the fuse may have blown. The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.
“Generating” LED flashing
The temperature of the pool water is too high or low to operate. You can override this by switching the main switch to SUPER CHLORINATE. The Aqua Rite will run at maximum output for the remainder of the current pump cycle or 24 hours, whichever comes first.
“No Flow” LED illuminated
The Aqua Rite has sensed a no flow condition and has stopped generating chlorine.
Check that the flow switch is plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control
unit and that the wire is not cut or damaged. Make sure you have at least 12″ of
straight pipe before the flow switch. If there is adequate flow and the LED is still on,
check that the arrows on the flow switch (on top of hex) are pointing in the direction
of flow.
“Check Salt” LED illuminated or flashing
Check salt level in pool/spa. If salt level is low, add salt according to chart on page 4.
Before adding large quantities of salt, it is advisable to have your salt level professionally
checked.
“High Salt” LED illuminated
Check salt level in pool/spa. If salt level is too high, lower salt level by draining some of
the pool water out of the pool and replace with fresh water. Continue until the salt
concentration is at recommended levels.
“Inspect Cell” LED flashing
Inspect and clean cell according to directions on page 8. When done, press the “diagnostic”
button for 3 seconds to stop the “Inspect Cell” LED flashing.
“Inspect Cell” LED illuminated
Remove and inspect the cell for scale. If the cell is scaled, follow the directions on page 8 for cell cleaning. If the pool has the proper amount of salt and the “Inspect Cell” LED is still illuminated, the cell may be worn and need replacement.
Possible causes of little or no free chlorine residual
- Aqua Rite® switch in OFF position.
- Desired Output % adjustment setting is too low.
- Low stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid).
- Filter pump time too short (8 hours for average size pools, more for large pools)
- Salt level too low (below 2400 ppm, Check Salt LED on).
- Salt level too high (High Salt LED on).
- Very warm pools increase chlorine demand–increase Output %, or filter run time.
- Cold water (below 50ºF) causes Aqua Rite to stop generating (Generating LED flashing).
- Excessive scaling on cell.
- High level of Nitrogen in pool water.
- “Yellow Out” or similar treatment recently used. Some yellow algae treatments will use chlorine at a very high rate and deplete the residual free chlorine. Manually shock the pool if indicated in the directions on the algae treatment. It still may be a matter of days before the pool returns to “normal” and chlorine tests will show the desired 1-3ppm free chlorine reading.
“-Pcb-” displayed and all 4 red/yellow LEDs are illuminated.
A possible Printed Circuit Board fault has been detected. Call for service.
Questions?
Refer to http://www.goldlinecontrols.com for latest manual revisions, additional information and helpful service. Or, you may visit your local Authorized Aqua Rite Dealer or call 888-921-POOL (7665) for assistance.
N. Kingstown, RI 02852 USA 092009K
Copyright © 2008 Goldine Controls
Red Square Pools (702) 530-7331 
what does it mean when the letters ‘ hot ‘ are shown in the display when you cylcle to salt concentration? I have had my AquaRite unit for 5 years and have never seen that.
jeff, have the same problem as we speak. did you get any satisfactory answers? Does your unit create chlorline and maintain in spite of this HOT code?
No Chlorine Production. When recycling the unit, it appears to be producing the proper voltage and current for Chlorine production, but after a few seconds it changes the display to “hot” and then no production.
I spoke with the tech support ay Aqua Rite/Goldline. They asked me to run through the promps on the diagnostics button and the first is temp. My temp says 237 ,no degree symbol but that is what it says. They told me the temp. sensor is failed in the T-15 cell and the cell will need to be replaced. Supposedly it is covered under warranty but I need to get there rep.to install it.Shoould take about 4.5 seconds to do and I have to pay the rep. $150.00 and get only a 1 year warranty. My thought is that every owner of this piece of garbage write and let the good folks at Hayward/Goldline and advise them that their service stinks and that we will not purchase any hayward product again. I asked the tech at Goldline why is it that no one knows about the word”HOT” .I would think it should be in their manual under troubleshooting and that they would have had to write into their software the word “HOT” but I didn’t get a satisfactory answer just some jibberish. Anyone wlse have this issue. How did you correct your problem ,Jeff.?
I have been too busy to call tech support. I must (and will) do that…if for no other reason than to be mystified and extend to them a legitamate complaint. I used a knock off brand cell (replaced last year) which performed well…last year.
My wife is contemplating an entire new unit. Would you guys care to offer a replacement system….Pool size: 20′ x 30′ with a 6 ft deep center.
Jeff, Im a consumer just like you and probably just as frustrated. i wasn’t sure on the last message your question about offering a replacement system? Is your sytem running ,how are you chlorinating?
This isn a crappy junky unit…Hayward should be ashamed to put something like this out. Have had my unit 3 months and suddenly not working….all the indicators are out of wack and don’t match the manual at all…..so how in the hell do you try to trouble shoot it….answer …you don’t that way a tech can come out and “fix” your three month old unit for hundreds of dollars. What a rip….seems like everyone in this country is trying to rip everyone else off. My advice….don’t buy hayward products.
Gordon I understand your frustration. If your unit is not operating properly have you considered calling the manufacturer (Hayward Customer Service 908-351-5400). In light of your frustration with your local “service techs” there’s a chance Hayward could recommend someone in your area. You may want to also consider taking the cell into a local retail pool store like Leslies’s Pool Supply. They can test the cell to determine if it is failing. Remember your salt levels need to be around 3400-3600 to produce chlorine. Also check if your flow sensor is installed correctly.
Just came back to Fl to find my Aqua Rite 20 is not working. I have power to the unit and the 20amp fuse is good, but no workey. No LED readout. Blown board??
Can I use the Hayward GLX-PCB Rite replacement board in this unit?
Mike in my experience when your looking to replace circuit boards sometimes its a good idea to fork lift the entire unit. Boards tend to be very expensive and there may be multiple problems that are contributing to the issue.
Have you checked the power from the transformer yet? Living in warmer climates can create a problem overheating the power source. Replacing a transformer is significantly less expensive and may be the issue if your not getting the proper voltage readings. Vaughn@redsquarepools.com
Thanks for the reply.
After removing the board I could see on the back that it was fried.
Perhaps I stumbled on a better way to control my pool chemistry. Alternate between the chlorine generator and using the chlorine tablets to help regulate cyanuric acid levels.
Now , if i can just get my calcium hardness up!
Hey, life doesn’t get any better than working on your pool.
I would like to get rid of my current Goldline aqua Rite SW system and upgrade. Can you suggest the best replacement for a 20k gal pool and spa?
Mike you may want to consider looking at Pentair’s solution called the IntelliChlor. Before you consider removing the the Goldline system, could you provide me some feedback what issues you are experiencing with the current system? Thanks, Vaughn.
Thanks for your reply.
I have a old Aqua rite 20 with the T-cell 5. When I got back to FL last month it was, Das Kaput. The backside was black from the line power 220v side to the phone jack side. I ordered a GLX-PCB-RITE from amazon @ $179. and installed. After powering back up I still had no LED lights and no power to the GLX-PCB-DSP display.
Troubleshooting results are 24vac between the 2 yel wires off the transformer.
23v between orange and yellow , top rectifier to bottom rectifier.
Also 23v yel on board to yel on bottom rectifier.
I don’t know how to troubleshoot the rectifiers or the DSP board.
Thanks
If you had your salt chlorinator for 3-5 years, your current limiter may be bad. Its the black thing on the for upper righthand side that is spaped like a black quarter shaped object. They usually go bad do to rot. they crumble apart. The current limiter if bad will not illuminate power light or it goes out after 10-15 seconds. You can change the 20A yellow ATO fuse for a buck or so for piece of mind. The current limiter can be brought at Digikey on the web part number 570-1105-ND for 6.53 and sure beats 700-800 hundred dollar replacing. You can unsolder the old and insert the new and resolder… its really that easy. After installing, and reattach all wire connectors, the power light will illuminate when turning on. ITS THAT SIMPLE.
Why would the cell only start generating in service mode? I switched two cells , Both only work in service mode. When turned on in Auto,the flow light is only on for a second then off. In service mode it stays on for ~ 30 seconds then off & generate light the comes on. Help
Why can’t we find a schematic of the control circuitry? It would help locating the troubles more precisely. After all, we own the thing we paid a good price for.
Claude are you looking for electrical schematics? I haven’t had the opportunity to find such data. Can you be more specific with your line of questions? Give me the issue or the outcome you hope to achieve. I will investigate and escalate with engineering contacts at Hayward for more clarity. Vaughn@redsquarepools.com
Does anyone know the specs quarter sized on the resistor on the board? The only numbers on it are SL32 2R025. Can you translate that into a part or reference number so I cabn buy the part, mine is fried. Thx RB
NTC Thermistor; Series:SL32; Thermistor Type:NTC; Resistance:2ohm; Thermistor Tolerance:± 15%; Package/Case:Radial; Dissipation Constant:45.4mW/°C; Lead Spacing:7.9mm; Leaded Process Compatible:Yes; Mounting Type:Through Hole ;RoHS Compliant: Yes
Claude, Thank you for your feedback! Vaughn Berger Vaughn@redsquarepools.com
Thanks for the parts info, ordered it from DigiKey, replaced it today and all is up and running. I appreciate the help. RB
I was first getting erratic salt readings, so I replaced the T-15 salt cell, everything was good for about a week, then I had no flow so I replaced the flow switch and again everything was good for a few days, last evening I put the system on super-chlorinate (normal demand is set at 45-50 on dial), then this morning I have no green generating lights. I haven’t had a chance to check the fuse but have pro-actively ordered the Thermistor.
This is only the 4th spring, ie: the system only lasted 3 yrs for me, I understand things happen and can accept that, what I can’t accept is how much Hayward charges for replacement items, especially on what seems to be sub-standard equipment.
Dale,
I understand your frustration regarding your salt cell system. At the root of the problem we’d all like to have our investment last longer than 3 years. There are things that you can do to prolong the life of a salt cell, here are a few options to consider:
Water Chemistry. Balancing your body of water goes beyond simply maintaining pH and Free Chlorine levels every week. I’d recommend purchasing a Taylor DPD test kit and making sure your water meets Hayward manufactures specs. Hayward provides requirements including Free Chlorine, pH, Alkalinity, Stabilizer (cyanuric) and Calcium Hardness. Take a look at the post about Langelier Saturation Index.
Cleaning Cell. I recommend actively inspecting the internal blades within the salt cell at least every other month during the Spring and Summer Seasons. What you are looking for is calcium that bridges between the blades. If bridging occurs, this can have adverse effects on the operation and longevity of a salt cell. If you are going to clean the cell, never submerge the cell as this will damage the circuitry. Instead, seal one end of the cell with either the Hayward Cell Cleaning Stand (part#GLX-CELLSTAND-A1) or double up a 3 mil trash bag and use a few rubber bands to create a temporary seal. Water and acid (1:1 ratio, water first, then acid) into a small pail. Pour the mixture into the open end of the cell making sure not to spill over the outside of the cell. Leave at least 2 inches at the top to accommodate for bubbles, foam and gas released. Lean the cell upright allowing to soak for 5-10 minutes. Afterwards, pour out mixture, rinse the inside blades and inspect. If blades still show signs of calcium repeat process again.
Cold Season Cell Replacement. Disconnect your cell during the cold season (ambiant temperature is under 65 Fahrenheit) with the Straight pipe placeholder for Turbo Cell (Part #GLX-CELL-PIPE). This will prolong the longevity of the salt cell. Note that when disconnecting the salt cell from the control box to ALWAYS shut off all power at the breaker to avoid damaging the cell circuitry. When re-installing, repeat the same process, shutting off all power to the system at the breaker.
Replacement Parts. Here is a document that outlines all replacement parts for the various Hayward Salt Cell Systems.
Other AquaRite Manuals.
RedSquare Pools
(702)530-7331
I noticed my unit showing hot with a bunch of lights on(red green yellow). not sure which lights were at as it was dark. after restarting it showed cold. Today my unit showed COLD at times when it is 90degrees water temp. It seems to be producing chlorine as lights are blinking. I restarted and left door open and cold stayed off(ran fine) for a few hours. When I previously restarted and watched for a few minutes all was fine so i closed door. After opening door a few hours later COLD would show up. I’m wondering if the board is going bad? The t15 cell was replaced after Leslie’s tested and said it was bad.
I just noticed my pool getting cloudy after 3 years of use, went to generator and the lights were on then went off then back on then off again like something on the circuit board was going in and out, then its off with the letters CoLd across the display now? Any help for this?
Don,
Most manufactures designs of salt cell systems do not produce chlorine when water is below 60F. Search google for the owners manual and review the fine print.
There is a far less need for sanitizer since algae growth is suspended during winter operations. The caveat here is if you use your heater on a regular basis and maintain higher temps during the the cold season.
Test your water with a water balance kit to determine the chemical levels, keeping your sanitizer, pH and Alkalinity balanced. Note: if your test kit is over 12 months old it is highly recommended to discard and replace with a new kit to achieve reliable readings. Vaughn@redsquarepools.com
the words HOT appear on my Hayward chlorinator display. Just had the main circuit board replace. The pool water is mot hot, in the other hand it been kind of cool er in South Florida. Any suggestions ?
Sounds like the temperature gauge (that is attached to plumbing by a wire to your control box) needs to be replaced. Can you confirm with pictures the configuration of your system? Pictures should display all control boxes on the system. I’m leaning towards your automation display (not salt Chlorinator display) indicating “HOT”. If you reference the attached manual I’ve provided an example of what the control box looks like for your salt chlorination system. If the box displaying “HOT” looks different from the one in the manual then my assumptions are correct. I’d need to get your Automation Control details before suggesting a proper repair.
I’ve attached the Hayward Manual link for your reference for traditional trouble shooting tips (refer to page 14 & 15).
Click to access Manual345.pdf
Send your pics to me personally to troubleshoot. Vaughn.Berger at gmail dot com.
I have Aqua Rite 20 with T-Cell 5. My salt level is reading very low 2000ppm. My pool guy says the salt it really 3500ppm. Does anyone know what the sensor part number is? I schematic would be great to have!!
The “No-FLow” light stays lit and I have replaced the flow sensor and verified the water flow. I even installed my neighbors flow sensor just to make sure I did not buy another bad sensor. Is it possible one of the transistors is bad on the circuit board? If so, do you have any idea what to replace and where to buy the replacement transistor? Truly at a loss what to do next other than replace the circuit board
what does it mean when all lights are on
My T15 system is saying HOT on the display? Even when the control panel is completely disconnected from the cell, it still reads HOT? I have another cell a T3, but my control panel is not displaying the T numbers when I press diagnostics 8 times, instead it reads HOT? How can I change the cell if the display does not let me select the menu for cell change?
turbo cell unit is cracked. Is there any way to get the new outer plastic party without buying a whole brand new 1
Cracks in pool plumbing can be tough to repair since they are under 20-35 psi. Some may recommend a 2 part epoxy depending on the extent of the damage. If this is a small crack, epoxy may be your best option.
My recommendation is to make the investment and buy a new salt cell that is typically carries a warranty from 2-5 years. Bandaid repairs, in my opinion, are usually not worth the time and money.
Preventative Action
You may want to consider using a “Winterization Replacement Pipe” during the winter season. This crack may be the result of freeze damage depending on you location. We sell a product for those with Pentair systems:
http://redsquarepools.com/shop/pentair-salt-chlorination-system/winter-cell-for-intellichlor-salt-chlorinator/
There is a company in Florida that re-builds salt cells. I can’t personally vouch for their quality of work, however it may provide you with the alternative your looking for.
Salt Solutions (Florida)
https://www.saltsolutionsinc.com/